Oarsmen rowing in snake boats at Aranmula, Kerala

Racing the harvest tides. Happy Onam!

The river moves to the power of a hundred oars, each stroke beating in time with Onam's song. Crowds gather along the banks to watch serpentine boats slice through the tide. It is Chingam, the first month of the Malayalam calendar, a season that ushers in Onam each year, corresponding to August–September in the Gregorian calendar. This festival unfolds over four to ten days, with Atham marking the start and Thiruonam the last day. The festivities include boat races, cultural performances, sports, dances, martial arts, vibrant pookkalam (floral rangoli), prayers, shopping, acts of charity and lavish feasts shared with loved ones.

And while each tradition has its charm, the call of the river is perhaps the most stirring, especially in Aranmula. Amid Onam's vibrancy, the Aranmula Boat Festival, featured here, unfolds on the serene Pampa River near the Parthasarathy Temple in Pathanamthitta. Since 1972, spirited snake boat races have added a competitive edge to the festivities, drawing thousands of spectators. Each pair of boats is a vision of pageantry, adorned with gleaming golden lace, fluttering flags and an ornamental umbrella at the centre.