Aerial view of surfers, Santa Catarina, Brazil

Reading between the waves. Aerial view of surfers, Santa Catarina, Brazil

Off the coast of Santa Catarina in southern Brazil, the image captures a familiar ritual: surfers waiting beyond the breaking waves, their boards rising and falling with the Atlantic. From above, almost nothing seems to happen. But that's when the real work begins.

Every wave carries energy generated by winds that may have blown hundreds or even thousands of miles away. The challenge is meeting that travelling swell at just the right moment. Wind, tides, currents and the shape of the seafloor determine how each swell will break, and a subtle shift can turn a perfect ride into tumbling whitewater.

Home to the island city of Florianópolis, with more than 40 beaches, Santa Catarina offers everything from gentle beginner breaks to world-class surf. Between June and October, southern right whales also visit these waters to calve close to shore. What looks like a sport is actually the art of reading a language spoken by the sea—and the best surfers know how to listen.