A dramatic drive

In these parts, the scenic route is the only route. Follow it to its end and you'll find yourself in El Chaltén, a former frontier town in the highlands of Patagonia. This tiny Argentinian community is much like those found in foothills all over the world, with plenty of hippie vibes and passion for the outdoors to go around. Most folks here come and go, drawn by seasonal work and world-class hiking and climbing in Los Glaciares National Park. But about 1,600 stalwart souls hold down the fort year-round, kept under watch by Cerro Torre (the finger-like crag at left) and Monte Fitz Roy (the mighty mountain on the right).