Garden Isle grandeur

The westernmost publicly accessible point in Hawaii happens to be on the state's longest beach, which curves 17 miles around the leeward side of Kaua'i. We use 'accessible' loosely here, though: You'll want a sturdy off-road vehicle for the journey to Polihale State Park, a 2-mile portion of the beach reached by a rough, tough-to-maintain dirt road. Travelers who brave the ridges and ruts will find a peace that's increasingly rare on the trendy Garden Isle, and with the proper camping permits, there's no need to limit the stay to one day. But don't count on any snorkeling or surfing: Save for a few short stretches, rip currents make these open seas unsafe for swimming.